Learning Center 3

Learning Center Three: Resources


  1. The How Stuff Works Web site includes a great article called "How Surfing Works" (Wilson, Tracy V., 11 June 2007. HowStuffWorks.com. 10 March 2010.) Written in everyday language without much scientific jargon, the entire article is well worth reading, but section six, "The Physics of Waves," is especially useful, and it includes a very good diagram.http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/water-sports/surfing.htm
  2. For another very good, very short explanation of waves and wave motion (this one is especially good at explaining what a wave is), see the "General Wave Motion" page (by Ron Kurtus, revised 24 June 2006) on the School for Champions Web site.http://www.school-for-champions.com/science/waves.htm
  3. Technical but readable, the Web page "Ocean Waves Styles and Patterns" on the Earth Science Australia Web site (last modified Sunday, January 10, 2010), supplies three really good pictures that show capillary waves, whitecap waves, and the formation of ocean swells in the open ocean.http://earthsci.org/processes/weather/waves/Waves.htm
  4. For a technical scientific explanation of waves, visit "Oceanography: Waves—theory and principles of waves, how they work and what causes them," by Dr. J. Floor Anthoni, 2000. The most useful sections are "Waves in the Environment," "Wave Motion" (read the first five paragraphs and skip the boxed insert), "Waves and Wind" (the first three paragraphs and the last paragraph), and "Waves Entering Shallow Water" (the first two paragraphs). This resource is especially good on how wind causes wave-size to increase.http://www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/waves.htm
  5. The Water Encyclopedia Web site’s "Waves" page provides excellent information about characteristics of waves, breaking waves, and the formation of waves at sea. By Ron Crouse, March 10, 2010.http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Tw-Z/Waves.html
  6. To learn more about the elements of surfboard design, consult this Web page:http://360guide.info/surfing/surfboard-design.html?Itemid=75